- Kurlansky, Mark.
Cod.
New York: Penguin Books, 1997.
ISBN 978-0-14-027501-8.
-
There is nothing particularly glamourous about a codfish.
It swims near the bottom of the ocean in cold continental
shelf waters with its mouth open, swallowing whatever comes
along, including smaller cod. While its white flesh is
prized, the cod provides little sport for the angler: once
hooked, it simply goes limp and must be hauled from the
bottom to the boat. And its rather odd profusion of fins and
blotchy colour lacks the elegance of marlin or swordfish or the menace
of a shark. But the cod has, since the middle ages, played a part not
only in the human diet but also in human history, being linked to the
Viking exploration of the North Atlantic, the Basque nautical
tradition, long-distance voyages in the age of exploration,
commercial transatlantic commerce, the
Caribbean slave trade, the U.S. war of independence, the expansion of
territorial waters from three to twelve and now 200 miles,
conservation and the emerging international governance of
the law of the sea, and more.
This delightful piece of reportage brings all of this together,
from the biology and ecology of the cod, to the history of its
exploitation by fishermen over the centuries, the commerce in
cod and the conflicts it engendered, the cultural significance of
cod in various societies and the myriad ways they have found to
use it, and the shameful overfishing which has depleted what was
once thought to be an inexhaustible resource (and should give pause
to any environmentalist who believes government regulation is the
answer to stewardship). But cod wouldn't
have made so much history if people didn't eat them, and the
narrative is accompanied by dozens of recipes from around the world
and across the centuries (one dates from 1393), including many for
parts of the fish other than its esteemed white flesh. Our
ancestors could afford to let nothing go to waste, and their
cleverness in turning what many today would consider offal into
delicacies still cherished by various cultures is admirable.
Since codfish has traditionally been sold salted and dried
(in which form it keeps almost indefinitely, even in tropical
climates, if kept dry, and is almost 80% protein by weight—a
key enabler of long ocean voyages before the advent of refrigeration),
you'll also want to read the author's work on
Salt (February 2005).
September 2008 